What is the difference between commercial and niche perfumery?

This is a topic I often bring up—whether when creating personalized perfumes or leading workshops. “Commercial” and “niche” are words that come up frequently. But what do they actually mean? And more importantly—how do I, as a perfumer, interpret them?

Let’s take a closer look—through the lens of history and personal experience.

Before “commercial” or “niche” existed

The modern format of perfume—an alcohol-based blend in a glass bottle with a spray—became popular in the late 19th and early 20th century. By then, France had already become the heart of perfumery, where both artistic and industrial developments were rapidly evolving.

At that time, there was no sharp distinction between “commercial” or “niche.” Perfumes were created using high-quality natural raw materials. Compositions were often concentrated, refined, and designed for limited, exclusive use.

The rise and transformation of commercial perfumery

As perfume chemistry evolved, more aromatic molecules were discovered and synthesized. This made it possible to produce perfumes that were cheaper, more stable, and easier to replicate.

Perfumery became increasingly tied to fashion and mass-market demand. One symbolic milestone: Chanel No. 5 (1921), which merged aldehydes and synthetic molecules with timeless elegance. From there, fashion houses like Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and others entered the world of fragrance.

In the 1990s, linear perfumery gained popularity—scents like CK One offered a single dominant impression that didn’t unfold over time. This simplified, “easy to like” approach became the blueprint for many commercial perfumes, typically built on inexpensive, mass-available materials.

The goal: pleasant to everyone, inexpensive to make, and easy to reproduce.

Niche perfumery — a return to artistry

As a reaction to the growing commercial focus, niche perfumery began to emerge. It represented a return to creative freedom—free from marketing trends, algorithms, and mass-market formulas.

Niche perfumery is about using rare and high-quality ingredients, complex structures, and personal stories. These are perfumes that develop, shift, and resonate with individual expression.

Perfume as an experience—not just a product.
Perfume as a narrative—not just a trend.

In summary:

🔸 Commercial perfumery = perfume as a product.

Accessible, familiar, made to please many, often based on synthetic molecules.

🔸 Niche perfumery = perfume as an art form.

Unexpected, personal, more exclusive—crafted with creative intent and depth.

At 13:13 perfumery, we embrace the niche approach. Each scent is created in limited quantities, using carefully selected materials, with a focus on mood, identity, and aesthetic beauty. Not to fit in—but to express.

If you're curious to explore, you’re always welcome to experience the difference.

— Anna Pipara

13:13 perfumery

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